Place your camera on a tripod and frame the image. Set your camera to either Manual or TV Shutter Priority mode and select a shutter speed according to the speed of the lighted Ferris wheel, and the style you are after anywhere between seconds.
The image captured will be full of light trails against a black sky, yet the center beams that hold the wheel will be sharp. A long exposure on a starry night can produce beautiful light trails created by the stars and the rotation of the earth. The best way to frame the image is to include an element of interest such as an old tree in the foreground.
Place your camera on a tripod and focus the lens to infinity. Depress the remote to open the shutter. You should keep your ISO at to keep the digital noise at a minimum. To complete the photo after your desired elapsed time, depress the remote again, and release the shutter.
When that happens to you, use as fast a shutter speed as possible by opening up the aperture all the way and set the ISO as high as you are comfortable going. Virtually any post-processing software is going to have a Shadows slider and a Highlights slider. Lightroom and Luminar both have these. Even your SmartPhone has these controls try the Snapseed app. First, pull the Highlights slider to the left until the bright lights are toned down. This will also make them appear more saturated.
Second, push the Shadows slider to the right until the rest of the picture is brightened up a bit. When you have done this, you will have evened out the exposure so it looks like a picture instead of a few highlights in a sea of black.
If you find the picture looks a little washed out from the shadows increase, pull the Blacks slider slightly down to the left. Very often, that one simple move creates a pretty nice picture.
Of course, you can work with colors, sharpness, noise, etc. Sometimes, however, you will find that there is such a vast disparity in tones that this move is insufficient. In that case, use HDR to solve this problem. As mentioned earlier, HDR is no longer the surreal mess it used to be. Now, Lightroom and Photoshop both have very nice HDR functions and they produce very realistic looking results.
Doing HDR in Lightroom is very simple. All you do is select your bracketed pictures, right-click, and choose Photo Merge. When you do, an option will appear labeled HDR. Choose it. The only thing you need to worry about is whether there is anything moving in your pictures. If there is, just choose the proper amount of de-ghosting. Lightroom will now process your picture and put it back in your Library module. The photo will not look like an HDR photo. In fact, you might actually look at it and be disappointed.
But do not worry, all you are doing in this step is creating a file with useable tones. Armed with this new file, do the same edit we just talked about — pull down the highlights and push up the shadows. This new file will give you much more leeway with which to work. It costs you nothing. Sometimes you will look at your settings later and wonder what you were doing. Both of these approaches open the shutter for a period of time that doesn't usually exceed 2 to 3 minutes - often less.
Part of the theory behind this is that multiple exposures are more effective at reducing noise than a single super long-exposure - even with long-exposure noise reduction enabled. The Super Long-Exposure. In this article, I'm not letting the issue of sensor heat stop me from trying a really long exposure.
I'll make use of some long-exposure noise reduction to help address that issue. I want to see what it looks like when I expose my shutter to light for 16 minutes or even 32 minutes. The human eye is limited to ultra-short exposure times so we can't see much color at night. But when the shutter is opened for half an hour, the results can be very interesting. The Problem The problem came when I tried to accurately predict the settings I needed for a super long-exposure.
I thought I went into it with a good guess on the settings but I usually had to add more light. So I shot for 30 minutes and would add more light and shoot again and again and again. Before I knew it, twilight came and then I had plenty of light but no stars! It provided a lot of the answers I was looking for in that I wanted a way to use my higher ISO settings to help anticipate the settings I needed. My cheat sheet in this is article is essentially an advancement of this same idea.
Theory Behind What I'm Doing. Count the number of f-stops you extend your exposure time and reduce your ISO by the same number of stops. This approach works well for small adjustments. Give two gifts in…. Landowners across Australia are partnering with Hipcamp to earn extra money by connecting their properties with folks looking to stay….
In places with an actual winter season, sleeping outside during this time of…. As we continue our work to get more people outside, Hipcamp recognizes the importance of representation and the native history…. Manual Focus Set to Infiniti This is one of the first tips I learned when shooting night skies, and probably the most important.
Get a Sturdy Tripod This might seem obvious, but a shaky tripod will turn crisp stars into unidentifiable blurs. Tent photo by Ezekiel Gonzalez 4. Play With External Light Sources I studied physics in college and it gave me a clear understanding of how external light sources affect my photos. Published by.
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