This includes everything from small finger-lamps to multicolored banquet lamps. New lamps continue to be made overseas as well as here in America. The new kerosene lamps are generally quite good quality. Like any other mass produced items, however, pattern detail and overall quality vary from piece to piece. One of the catalogs from a new lamp wholesaler claims its lamps "were made using the original antique lamps as models. The easiest first test to catch new glass lamps is to simply expose them to black light.
The vast majority of all new glass lamp fonts and bases are glued together. Vintage glass kerosene lamps were fused together when the glass was hot. All the pressed glass lamps we purchased for this article, which came from several sources, were glued. Even knowing what to look for, it is difficult to detect the glue in ordinary light with the naked eye. But every new joint fluoresces brightly in black light Fig. Old joints that are fused, not glued, do not fluoresce at the base-font joint.
Pure acetone has no effect on the modern glue. Neither does any one of several other solvents and paint removers. The new lamps were finally were separated after boiling them in water for about 5 minutes.
This procedure should be considered hazardous and is not recommended as a test for new and old. Another clue to age is the metal hardware. This includes the metal fitting collar into which the burner screws; metal filling holes through which fuel is poured; and metal font-to-base connections.
With rare exceptions, all old metal hardware is mounted or joined to the glass with plaster. By contrast, almost all new metal hardware is glued. This glue also fluoresces brightly under long wave black light. Another clue to new metal hardware is wide or empty spaces between the metal and the glass. There are no empty spaces in old joints; the entire joint is packed with plaster Figs. Don't be fooled by elaborate new hardware such as you might find in larger lamps like the new Cathedral lamp in Fig.
The hardware joining the base and font looks complicated but it is just another form of a glued joint. A metal plate is glued to the bottom of the font. Discuss the age and value of your lamp with the appraiser. Ask your appraiser what your lamp is worth and how that worth has changed over time. Find out what the appraiser's recommendations are for lamp insurance and routine maintenance, such as cleaning or polishing. If you intend to sell your lamp, ask the appraiser for recommendations of buyers.
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By: Elton Dunn Updated July 21, Share It. Chimney - This glass protector contains the flame of the lamp. In some lamps, there is also a shade. Use a Blacklight Hold a blacklight next to the lamp in a dark room. Examine the Hardware Although it's not a foolproof method of antique kerosene lamp identification, hardware can offer a clue about whether a lamp is new or old. Check for Plaster While many new lamps use hardware that looks very much like the original pieces and may even be made from the same molds, how the hardware is attached will differ between new an old lamps.
Important Factors in Antique Oil Lamp Identification Once you know your oil lamp is a genuine antique, there's still work to do to find out more about it.
Antique Lamp Styles Antique kerosene and oil lamps come in many different styles and types. You may have one of the following: Antique oil lamps with handles - Some lamps were designed to be carried around the house or property.
You can identify this type of lamp by its carrying handle or finger loop. Hanging antique oil lamps - Other lamps have a loop for hanging from a nail or on a wall. This loop allows the lamp to hang level. Antique kerosene table lamps - Table lamps vary in size, but they have a wider base that allows them to sit upright on a table.
Antique wall lamps - Wall lamps often have a reflector that would lie against the wall and reflect light back into the room. Lamps with shades - Some lamps have glass shades that add to their beauty and value. Here are the six types of oil lamp burners: Prong burners - Used with kerosene and oil lamps, these burners have four prongs that hold the glass chimney in place. Coronet burners - Also used with kerosene and oil lamps, these burners have a coronet or crown-shaped piece of hardware that holds the chimney.
Argand burners - This type of burner had many holes to allow air to circulate and facilitate burning. Central draft burners - Similar to an Argand burner, this type of burner allowed greater air circulation, this time through an intake tube in the center and a perforated metal surface. Whale oil burners - These burners had two long tubes that held the wick and extended down into the reservoir, allowing the heat from the lamp to melt the whale oil.
Burning fluid burners - In these burners, tubes extend out and upwards from a plate. Tubes are usually made of brass.
Colors of Antique Oil Lamps Although many lamps are made of clear glass, you'll also see them in a variety of beautiful colors. These are some of the colors of genuine antique oil lamps: Green glass Clear glass Amber glass White milk glass Amethyst glass Red glass Cobalt glass.
Oil Lamp Maker's Marks One essential tool in learning how to identify antique oil lamps is knowing where to find the maker's marks. According to Old Copper , these are a few of the most notable: Aladdin - This brand used different maker's marks, but they almost always say "Aladdin" somewhere in them.
Beacon Light - For this brand, you'll often see the name in block letters inside a circle. Oil Lamp Patent Numbers and Dates One excellent way to establish the history of your antique oil lamp is by finding a patent number or date. Enjoy the Beauty of Antique Oil Lamps Sometimes, the easiest way to identify an antique is to look at pictures of similar items. How to Measure a Purse Correctly.
Identifying Rare and Valuable Antique Buttons. By Kate Miller-Wilson. Antique Kerosene Banquet Lamps.
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